Make a maracuja conditioner bar

You cannot have a shampoo bar formula (previous post) without a conditioner bar.

In this formulation I used Emulsense™ HC as my cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are needed for conditioners to close off the hair cuticles, prevent frizziness and aid combability. They require lower pH, so aim for 4.0-4.5 ideally. Emulsense has a lower pH than BTMS so chances are you will need to adjust the pH for the second time you make the bar (first trial is great for testing). If you need to increase the pH, use only arginine to do so as Emulsense doesn’t play well with other bases. I also used Xyliance® which is a non-ionic emulsifier to help the bar keep its shape but it also aids rinse-off.

For my lipids I chose Maracuja oil for its moisturising properties and I balanced it out with Dicaprylyl carbonate that is a dry-feel, super velvety emollient.

For scent I blended slightly stronger essential oils because Emulsense™ HC has a strong scent as in itself and wanted to cover that as much as possible.

I hope you like it and if you make it, remember to tag FH on social media.

 
 

SOURCING

This is where I purchased my ingredients:

Emulsense™ HC INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol

Dicaprylyl carbonate INCI: Dicaprylyl carbonate

Xyliance INCI: Cetearyl wheat straw glycosides and cetearyl alcohol

HOW TO USE

Use on wet, cleansed hair. Holding the bar in your hand, smooth it along your hair. Leave it to work for a few minutes before rinsing off very well.

THE FORMULA

(pH: 4.32)

Timea Racz

Cosmetic Chemist and Teacher with nearly 20 years of experience.

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Formulate argan hair mask cubes

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Make a clay and coffee shampoo bar